Guide: Kalymnos, Greece

Greece is unique. Whether it’s the allure of the Aegean Sea; encompassed of crystal waters and biodiverse marine life, the groves of olive trees set amongst sandy beach tracks and minute villages comprised of Cycladic architecture- there is an island suited for everyone. Not to mention the abundance of ancient philosophical history that has quite literally shaped modern society as we know it today (the democratic birthplace of the West etcetera etcetera).

 Let us introduce you to Kalymnos. Roam through the port town of Pothia as the local fishermen unload their daily catch under the rising sun, cruise down the winding tree-lined roads into Massouri- Greece’s very own version of The Amalfi Drive, hike to the cliff-perched chapels or simple soak up the sunset with a portion of Dolmades from one of the many authentic tavernas across the island.

 Located just north of Kos and the fourth largest island of the Dodecanese, Kalymnos is also a top climbing destination in Europe and is renowned for being the center of the Greek sponge diving industry- once the main source of income for Kalymnian families. We spent 5 days exploring this beautiful oasis (you could easily spend more time here) and have compiled our highlights for you.

What to Do

Transport

Hire a car or a scooter. The island is small so you can easily get around it within a day if you have your own transport. We’d recommend a car as it is better matched for the hilly landscape and hairpin corners. We hired ours for 5 days and it cost us €120 from the lovely Kalymnos Car, Scooter & ATV Rental which was much cheaper than neighbouring Kos where we paid almost the same for a day. There is often some rock fall on the roads as well so be careful when driving.

Adventures

You name it Kalymnos probably has it. From yoga to climbing, watersports and diving, there is an activity for all here. There are plenty of organisations, particularly in Masouri, where you can hire guides and plan excursions.

Beaches

One of our favourite things about Kalymnos is that much of the island still feels relatively untouched and unexplored. We visited several beaches across the island where we were two of only a handful of visitors. If you’re looking for a similar experience, we’d recommend visiting at the start of the summer season like us (mid-May), as we were told it gets a lot busier in the peak of summer and especially in September with climbers, as the weather cools down. Palionnisos and Vlychadia were two of our favourite, low key spots.

Villages

The island is comprised of lots of little villages which all have their unique feel.

Vathis

A very sleepy harbour village with a few tavernas and shops. We spoke to a local shop owner here who was able to recommend a local fisherman to take us out on a trip around the bay. We had a language barrier but we managed to communicate regardless and it was a great experience, learning about the local fishing and sponge diving traditions. He has been sponge diving for over 50 years.

 Telendos

You can get the ferry across from Kalymnos to this tiny island featuring a few great beaches and local tavernas. The islands used to connect but an earthquake created the 700m divide which is believed to have happened in 535 AD.

Masouri

­This was our favourite town, we had to pass through to get to our accommodation in Arginonta. Bustling with travellers and climbers alike, the town has a very laid back and easy going feel with some great food spots. From here you can visit the famous Grande Grotta climbing cave or hike to the Panagia of Kesteli Chapel. If you do this make sure you take the disguised path to the left and not the right as this will take you all around the mountain as we found out - oops.

Museums

We cannot vouch for a particular museum as we decided to prioritise our time by exploring the nature of the island, but there is the Archaeological Museum of Kalymnos and the Folklore museum which includes items of Kalymnian tradition, including bridal dresses and household items.

 
Where to Stay

The highlight of our trip. We stayed at two beautiful spots which we would love to return to with our families and friends one day.

Petra Boutique Homes and Villas

Petra is situated overlooking the Arginonta Bay in Kalymnos, a small hub for exhilarated climbers and ultimate-chill seekers. The collection is comprised of seven villas in varying sizes, making it a perfect suitor for couples through to larger families. We stayed in their newest villas- Gaia. Perfect for couples, Gaia oozes bohemian style and is comprised of one double bedroom and its very own private pool. It has a fully equipped kitchen, one of the most beautiful outdoor seating areas we’ve seen and a bathroom with shower. Imagine balmy evenings, dips in the pool and large al fresco feasts overlooking the Aegean Sea. Retire to your bedroom to dream the day away as you fall asleep to the meditative sounds of the sea.

 You know we love the basics being covered but we have eyes for the details. Petra did not disappoint. Materialistically, Coco-Mat dressing gowns and bed linen add the finishing touches to your stay- not to mention the carefully curated interiors including soft lighting, themes of rattan and notes of sand-coloured wood throughout. The snippets of the landscape complete the interior, from the decorative pearl seashell to the sunshine yellow sofa bed and soft earthy-toned window frames.

Architecturally, the space is the epitome of light and airy. Mosquito nets provide peace of mind to fling all windows open and embrace the indoor-outdoor life whist the sunshine floods the whitewashed walls. Perhaps our favourite part of all is the preservation given to the environment. Before we even stepped food indoors Gaia, we were marveled by the exterior. Built in compliance with local architecture, the collection looks as though it is an extension of the mountain itself. The stone-face alludes to the soaring mountains behind, blending in from afar. Within this space, environmentally friendly materials have been used with wooden pergolas for shading and double-glazed windows for energy insultation.  

We would really love to return here with our family and friends one day and would lastly like to thank the wonderful for staff for their assistance with area tips and car hire. We even had a sneak peak of the bigger villas on request and would recommend to all.

Kantouni Beach

Kantouni Beach Boutique hotel is situated on Kantouni Beach, 5km north-west of Pothia. Renovated to a 4-star offering, the high standards of service and design are unique. We stayed in one of the junior suites overlooking the sea, complete with the biggest bed we’ve ever slept in, a shower, sofa bed and balcony. The room was spacious and bright with great air con- making it the perfect retreat from the midday sun.

 There is also a restaurant on-site next to the pool, offering breakfast which comes free with the room, lunch and even dinner. We stayed here for our last few days when we wanted to slow down and embrace nothingness. This hotel gave us the perfect space to do just that. Kick back on the luxury loungers whilst you watch the sea roll in beyond the infinity pool. Head up to the rooftop to watch the sun fall into the sea as local families splash in the water and the surrounding tavernas begin to bustle.

 There are not enough positive adjectives to describe this wonderful place, in particular the staff who made us feel like part of the family. They really went above and beyond to make us feel like one of the family, from consistently ensuring we were happy with our stay to even trying to source fishing supplies for Melvyn one afternoon. We met a few people who were returning to the hotel year after year and this did not surprise us.

Where to Eat

Dreamcatcher

A very laid back beach spot, known for their generational recipes and seafood. We visited a few times and the lovely owner explained that a lot of the dishes were cooked by her mum. We fell in love with the aubergine fritters and fresh tzatziki.

Aegean Tavern

The best sunset spot in our opinion. We also visited here twice because it was so good. Book ahead if you want one of the better tables and try the gyros!

Paradisio

Beautiful beach spot on Vlychadia beach near Pothia, don’t miss out on the fresh fish.

Kantouni Beach

We had a lovely few meals staying here as mentioned earlier. Another great sunset spot, unique with heaters for the cooler evenings off-season.

 La Kambusa

If you’re in need of a different cuisine- this has all your Italian needs.  

Accessibility

This was our second trip to Greece and we love how easy it is to move around. There are many internal flights, particularly from the mainland, but we love utilising the ferry. You can easily book tickets online via Ferryscanner or Ferryhopper in advance or last minute for reasonable prices. We paid €35 for us both to cross from Kos to Kalymnos which takes around half an hour. If you’re crossing on a windy day- hold on to your hats!  

People

It would be impossible to round off our Kalymnos guide without referencing the wonderful people we met along the way. We only encountered the most helpful, cheerful and welcoming locals who gave us the best tips and memories. For that we are very grateful.